Anet A8 Dual Mosfet & Motherboard Case with Reset Button v2

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Anet A8 Dual Mosfet & Motherboard Case with Reset Button v2

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Anet A8 Dual Mosfet Case with Reset Button v2 Full Description Here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2232793 Follow up to my original Anet A8 Dual Mosfet Case with Reset Button found here – http://de-signz.co.uk/product/anet-a8-dual-mosfet-motherboard-case-with-reset-button/ This case is designed to sit at the bottom of the frame and intended to house 2 mosfets and the motherboard – oh! and with the added bonus of a reset button. Case Size: 200mm x 135mm x 50mm with 1.6mm sides and faces. A Short video of v2 can be found here… https://youtu.be/Yb6Tnjm7BaI A short video showing the reset button in action can be found here… https://youtu.be/fnWF0Hj6eeI
Whats Changed? After wanting to update/change the original design to be… a. Stronger, b. Easier to Print along with listening to users input the following have changed.
  1. Less Hex - I have removed alot of lower bottom case hex. I found the original to be too “hexy” causing the case to be quite weak i believe this will help strengthen up the main body… Along with making it easier to print (plus little less clean up).
  2. Added Voids (Removable) - Added extra voids for standard machine parts (z endstop slider and wire port) along with added voids for standard nuts and bolts which was causing the case to not fit smoothly.
  3. Lowered Mosfets - Lowered mosfets slightly to allow more space for power wires to the main board – i used some high amp wire that is not very flexible – this should enable a little more room,
  4. Thicker Pegs - A few users suggested making the pegs slightly thicker as a few was snapping upon screwing. i personally didnt have this issue, maybe screw size but i have thickened the base of the pegs up.
  5. Fan Clips - Little hex pieces that clips in any hex making that hex solid for you to then screw a fan or other device in. i decided to do it this way because many people use different size fans or would want to place the fan in a different location – with this piece you now can – simply press it into a hex and screw your device into it. i didnt include a screw hole because guaranteed your fans screw hole wont be align central.
Whats Not Changed? - Suggestions i didn’t take into considderation this time.
  1. LCD Cable - A few users suggested to allow access for the lcd cable – with this being so slim and the cable end being so thick i didnt want to have a gaping hole in the case for a thin wire to be poking through. my solution is to feed the lcd cable behind the case and through the rear hole. this also helps keep the lecd cable flat and secured to the frame and doesnt affect the case.
  2. Cable Ports - I havent included and specific cable hole for say the extruder motors etc. this is for many reasons. everybody mounts there cables different – everyone’s cables end up at different lengths by the time they get to the board. i didn’t want to have big holes that would be unusable. I Personally join 2-3 hex’s together by removing the joining pieces to make a larger hex where i require the wire – this works wonders and all cables fir thru the removal of just one hex separator (2 hex’s)

  • Anet A8
  • 3D Printer
  • Motherboard Case
  • Reset Button
  • STL Download
Rafts: No   Supports: Doesn’t Matter   Resolution: 0.16   Infill: 100%     Notes: I only printed with 0.16 as the case thickness is 1.6mm so 10 equal layers. I used 100% infill as my Top/Bottom/Wall Settings are 0.8mm. Supports are advised for the rear frame but not essential. I have attached a image of the settings i used in cura which gave me “pop out” supports. i Printed PLA at 80mms, 190 ext, 55bed. Avoid printing the faceplate with a standard brim (read on for “fake brim”) as i struggled to remove the brim from the inner hexes on my first attempt so i advise against it – though a brim shouldn’t be a problem on the case back. I printed the front faceplate with a “brim” – i created a false brim using skirt so it applies to the outside of the faceplate only causing no silly internal hex brim! … To apply this false brim i set the skirt to 20 lines (this can be adjusted to suit) and i set the skirt distance to 0.01mm – good luck!
Minor Tweaks Faceplate Clips may need to be tweaked (sanded/filed) slightly to fit (depending on your printers calibration & settings you might be lucky)